Food and hospitality in Sandfields guest house in Nubra was homely and welcoming. After having the simple and wonderful breakfast at the guest house, we started travelling towards Pangong Lake today. Lake is locally called Tso in Ladakh, so its called Pangong Tso as well. I bid adieu to the sand dune dessert.
Then we got to meet Shyok river and the river stays with us for a long time. This is of course since people like roads to be as much low lying as possible and so does nature - want its river to be.
I was wondering why there is no vegetation even when there is so much of water available although the climate the harsh. Abdul mentioned maybe since the soil is not fertile. We stopped at a spot in the river and I relaxed on the bank of the river for sometime, listening to the gushing water.
In many stretches on the way its off-roading and there is no proper road.
While other roads are more proper. Its definitely a challenge to drive through these single lane roads with oncoming trucks, but Abdul and other drivers here are accustomed to this and its a cakewalk for them.
Abdul mentioned that in some of the areas here there used to hot springs leading to Sulphur deposits. But now these hot springs have dried out. We had lunch in a restaurant called Chang La near Tangste army base. We will be passing through Chang La Pass tomorrow on our way to Leh.
On the way then we got to see yaks (a whole bunch with younger ones and older ones) going on a walk.
and shepherds handling goats and sheep simultaneously.
And later we got to meet a family of these guys. They have burrows in the ground in which they get into and come out of other burrows. They are very active and friendly with tourists. They sometimes stand up on their hind legs. They look like the local squirrels, with fur of course.
While the contrast of sky and earth is attractive enough, I got to see a frozen river. Plan to walk on this tomorrow on the way back.
And after some more off-roading we get to be mesmerized.
These photos wont do justice. I could see 4 colors of water (blue, Prussian blue, green and grey). I felt what I am seeing here is not replicable anywhere else, not even in photographs. Its bliss here.
I chose a spot where is there is no one nearby and sat down there listening to the movement of water.
It was generally more cold here and the altitude is about 13,900 feet. Abdul had adequately warned me that this is highest altitude I will staying overnight in this trip. So of course oxygen will be less and we should not exert too much. I had initially suggested going to hotel and me exploring the place on my own coming down from the guest house. Abdul said, nothing doing, you want to go anywhere, I will take you in the vehicle. So I spent more than an hour at the lake to make this journey worthwhile. Weather was good (sunny) for staying out, although it was windy and cold. Its cold possibly also due to the lake being surrounded by mountains in all directions.
After that we retired to the guest house. Here although they had 6 rooms, I was the only guest for the night. They prepared what I ordered for lunch and dinner :). This area doesn't have phone signal and doesn't have electricity connection. You are cutoff from the world and its really a paradise...
Above is view from the guest house. Guest houses are at an elevation from the lake. And yes, I could see the lake from my room. For dinner I asked for egg curry and chapati. And food was again homely and comforting. Abdul had asked the staff to provide me hot water bags so that I can keep them under my bedsheets and they will help in keeping me warm. With the limited resources they had, they gave me the best hospitality. I waited for the sunrise and I was gifted one, at 5.41 am.
Its a fight between the Sun and the mountains and where the fire ball eventually wins.
By about 8 am the lake transforms like this and you maybe able to identify a few shades of water herein.
Then headed back, on our way to Leh. As I had mentioned, we stopped at the frozen river. I and many other tourists were walking on the frozen river, unmindful that this can crack and we may fall into the cold water anytime :)
At different locations within the frozen river, I picked up some snow and noticed that there were two types of crystals. The pointed ones -
and then the irregular ones. I am not sure but I told myself these might be different types of crystal formations.
Anyway, having tick marked that I have walked over a river without getting my ankles wet, we headed to Chang La pass. So snow capped mountains again. This pass is at an altitude of 17,600 feet above mean sea level.
After crossing the pass we stopped for lunch at Kharu. Kharu is where the Pangong Lake road meets the Manali Leh Highway. From here on we are on the Manali Leh Highway and the roads are well maintained with vegetation on both sides. Possibly this is why motorcyclists love riding on this road.
In some time we reached Ladakh Sarai Resort. This is in a village called Saboo, 7 kms from Leh city. Google maps confused us a bit by dropping us on the backside of the hotel. Then we triangulated our way to the hotel. The hotel upgraded me from a Mud House (that was booked) to a Chalet (a luxury duplex with 2 rooms and a balcony!). I joked that they upgraded me seeing that I single and look like a sane guy who would not cause them much trouble. :)
The views from my room and balcony was awesome.
I had initially thought I will explore Saboo village for the rest of the day. But having experienced this room, I just felt lazy and stayed back here in the balcony absorbing the view and reading a bit.
Post bath, I headed for a good dinner of Rogan Josh and roti. It was tasty and of appropriate quantity for me. Staff was courteous and gave a fine service. I bragged about the upgrade to D and family :P
Comments
Post a Comment