Skip to main content

Immersion [May 13]

The proper first day of the trip. As per actual plan today is the day I am supposed to take rest to acclimatize. Since I already did that yesterday, I thought to exploring Leh city on foot.

Although the manager had mentioned breakfast will be ready by 7 am, it was not ready even by 8. I used the time to call up D. While the breakfast was of really poor quality, I felt I and another family were the only patrons here. And their cook must be really pathetic. I decided I would not have any meals in Royal Holiday Hotel. One good thing with the hotel is that it is at a walkable distance from Leh market.

So I geared up and left by about 9.30 am. Looked like a bright sunny day. On the way I saw that De Pashmina Emporium was open. I had heard about this place in blogs and Google reviews stamped it as selling good authentic Pashmina or wool products albeit at a price. The owner Omar did his magic and I ended up buying 3 products, don't ask me the prices and all the three can only be dry-cleaned, no washing. 

Then I strolled around and reached the main market road (walkway, no vehicles here). Later in the day this road gets very busy and crowded.

The prominent building at the end of this road is the mosque. It looks beautiful. Omar prays here.
My next stop was the museum. When I heading there I saw this tree. I wondered if the tree grew drilling a hole in the wall or if the wall was constructed including the tree as its integral part. This is nature and man competing for urban space.
Out of nowhere you see the Central Asian Museum. Inaugurated by J&K CM Mehbooba Mufti 6 years ago it seems. Please be reminded that politicians are good for claiming the credit of someone else's work as their own. But the actual heroes who get such things done are people like Andre Alexander who conceived this building.
Each floor of the museum is dedicated to one region of this area namely - Ladakhi, Kashmiri, Tibetan and Baltistan.

One needs to understand that Ladakh was in the cross roads of the Silk Route (connecting Asia and Europe via central Asia) and played an important role of being a tributary of connecting India to Central Asia, Tibet and China. From the top floor of the museum I spotted the Leh Palace. Also mountain views from here was awesome. 
The Leh Palace, community spaces of those times, along with residential houses is called Old Town of Leh. It used to be fortified and had four Stupa gates or entry points on its walls. 
So I entered old town and saw works such as this. Mostly in dilapidated condition,  abandoned, needing restoration.
Then I reached this structure. This is called a Stupa and is found in a lot of places here. This particular Stupa is part of a Gonpa complex. As I understand Gonpa is a center of Buddhist learning or a monastery. 

I found it very difficult to explore walking without a map connectivity. So I headed to an Airtel outlet and got a sim in my name. 
Then I was in control. I understood I missed the Prayer Wheel that I had intended to go, which was near the Stupa I just saw. I headed back and saw an old man rotating it and I rotated it as well - 2 revolutions.
In the same lane was a stone wall painted white and then this. No idea what this was. No one to ask either. 
Thought of having a midmorning tea and reached a cafe advertised as being run by Ladakhi women. I had a Kahwa.
Then I went to the Leh market and purchased 3 more shawls, prayer flag and a artifact. This lady who was running the shop explained to me that her Shop is Ladakhi and many of the shops here selling stuff is run by Kashmiris.

I tried purchasing Apricot and learnt that Apricot season is in August and whatever they were selling was from last year. So I ditched the plan.

It was lunch time and I headed to The Tibetan Kitchen (D's suggestion) and ordered Chicken Thupka.
Would say not as flavourful as yesterday's dinner at Ladakh Himalayan Kitchen. But it did feel healthy. 

On the way back from lunch I go into a market with multiple sellers selling handicraft and art items to tourists. I purchased some fridge magnets,  a Keychain, jewellery such as a Moti chain and ear rings (for D), a small white Buddha statue etc. 

I then headed to Soma Gonpa. I  went there by chance. I saw a big red gate and got in to see this, hidden in the middle of the city.
I went in and sat down for some time, watching people come in and pray.

I then purchased a brown belt for myself. Weather started getting bad. I had noted the belt the day before. 

As the weather started getting worse I headed towards De Khambir for an early dinner. I had butter tea and plain Khambir. Both are local food enjoyed by Ladakhis as I understand. 
The tea had salt in it. Khambir is a thick bread. I then headed to the hotel to be safe if weather worsens. On the way I saw this man. This is how they look, here. With lots of fur to protect them from the harsh Winter.
In the hotel, the manager had earlier told me there is a terrace that I am free to visit. So to enjoy the stormy weather I headed upstairs. 
It was windy and cold.
Situation improved after sometime and it was sunny. By the way days are very long here in May. It's bright by 5.30 am and it's not dark at 7.30 pm.
It was a good vacation day. Hoping the best for the next day!

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Dumra [May 15]

Today I am checking out of Leh and travelling towards Nubra (or Dumra locally). Nubra is also a river. Nubra has lower altitude than Leh but we need to cross a pass on the way which is at a higher altitude. Nubra has better vegetation due to the milder climate as a consequence of lower altitude. The roads again and again reminds me that I am travelling through a cold dessert, with minimal flora and rare fauna.  Also as we started gaining altitude, I could see some grand views. It started snowing as we further went up. I am seeing a snowfall after a long time.      After sometime all one gets to see is white. As the snow was fresh I was able to grab a handful. And Abdul helped with this click. Then we reached the highest point (altitude) of this trip at Khardung La, at 17,582 feet (or 5,359 m as per wiki) above sea level. The height mentioned at the location was however 17,982 feet. It has the second highest motorable road in the world. This pass connects the Ind...

Arrival [May 12]

I was supposed to arrive in Leh the next day. I had to travel early (12th May) due to the Go Air fiasco and the higher ticket charges for 13th May. So I had to book one extra day at the hotel, as discussed earlier MMT is useless from the viewpoint of customers.  Having done all the bookings, I set forth on 12 May morning on A IndiGo flight. I carried stuff I will need while I land there in my cabin baggage itself. This included Lip balm, Sunscreen, binnie, jacket and gloves. As we were flying north and I was on the east side of the flight it was sunny and I closed my window. But when the captain announced we will land in 30 minutes and the the weather is a pleasant 9 degree Celsius I pulled up window and good heavens the sight  I have only seen such a heavenly postcard type view on TV. Me and other passengers couldn't take our eye away from the window. I was wondering if this was a road or a river. Must be a frozen river I realized later when I saw actu...

Pangong [May 16-17]

Food and hospitality in Sandfields guest house in Nubra was homely and welcoming. After having the simple and wonderful breakfast at the guest house, we started travelling towards Pangong Lake today. Lake is locally called Tso in Ladakh, so its called Pangong Tso as well. I bid adieu to the sand dune dessert. Then we got to meet Shyok river and the river stays with us for a long time. This is of course since people like roads to be as much low lying as possible and so does nature - want its river to be. I was wondering why there is no vegetation even when there is so much of water available although the climate the harsh. Abdul mentioned maybe since the soil is not fertile. We stopped at a spot in the river and I relaxed on the bank of the river for sometime, listening to the gushing water.         In many stretches on the way its off-roading and there is no proper road. While other roads are more proper. Its definitely a challenge to drive through these single ...